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The quintessence of La Madura
We are delighted to announce the arrival of a new wine at Madura, known as LM.
We have been keen to undertake this project for some time, but such decisions requiring a great deal of thought and a lot of time-consuming, difficult work, but now it’s time for pleasure.
In developing LM, our aim has been to produce the flagship wine in our range: it embodies the quintessence of our vineyards and the various ‘terroirs’ that it covers (just like the Saint-Chinian appellation).
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For our new LM wine, we take the usual approach a step further at harvest time by looking through each parcel as the grapes ripen in order to select the very best bunches (well aerated with small grapes …)
These grapes are of different varieties (Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah) and are brought back to the cellars in crates (as for the other wines) as the harvest progresses. The selection is checked in the cellars and the bunches are then de-stalked.
The grapes are then totally re-sorted to retain only the very best and get rid of any remaining plant debris (pedicels, bits of stalk, failed grapes, etc.). They are then crushed and placed in open “demi-muids” (500 l barrels) in which they ferment. The barrels are gradually filled as the harvest progresses in each parcel.
During fermentation, which takes place at naturally low temperatures, the ‘marc’ is regularly immersed by punching of the cap.
Once vatting time is over – after about five weeks – the wine is poured into barrels that have been used for a year. What we are looking for is expression of terroir without adding the influence of oak.
Malolactic fermentation takes place in the barrels. The wines are then matured on the lees for about a year.
LM is then bottled without fining or filtering (like our other red wines) to preserve its initial purity.
In doing all this work, our motivation stems from a desire to take our approach as far as possible and create a wine that reflects the outstanding richness, diversity and typicity of our terroirs with greater character, elegance, finesse and complexity. The idea was certainly not to try and create the most impressive possible wine.
We made the wine for the first time in 2005 in very limited quantities, around 800 to 850 bottles per vintage. We now think the time has come to offer these bottles to our customers.
Bearing in mind the “haute couture” approach we have taken to making the wine, we felt that the packaging should be of the same high quality and yet remain sober and in line with our other wines (you can be the judge of that!).
So that, in a few lines, is how LM was born, a wine that, we believe, reflects the full potential of our terroirs and the spirit that guides our work day by day.
To us, LM is a wine to be enjoyed with fine food, so we thought that it might be of interest to share with you the tasting notes that we were pleased to receive from sommeliers for whom we have great respect.
NB: LM comes in individual boxes (see photos), in outer packaging of 6 boxes.
David Biraud
Chef Sommelier, Les Ambassadeurs, Hôtel de Crillon - Paris
Meilleur Ouvrier de France - Sommellerie 2004
Meilleur Sommelier de France 2002
Meilleur Jeune Sommelier de France
It’s always difficult to present what you believe to be the best of your production. How will it be perceived? What will people think of it?
This is what Domaine La Madura has done with this Cuvée LM, which embodies the excellence of all the hard work done by Nadia, Cyril and their children, who, at their young age, have seen a dream come true.
The wine has a dark crimson colour with purplish tints and has a touch of the south that hints at richness and complexity. The nose develops jammy blackcurrant, blackberry and black cherry aromas along with the hint of spices that we find in Mediterranean wines – pepper, bay leaf, cocoa -, that is a good sign of a complex bouquet to come. On tasting, the wine confirms its potential; the texture is there, the tannins are tight, the structure is sound and the flesh fills the palate with firmness and smoothness at the same time. A wine of character, but well brought-up and distinguished.
This well-balanced wine then offers us a long, mouth-watering persistence and renewed freshness that is so important when enjoying it with a meal. And yes, it’s a wine to accompany good food. The winter period, with its tasty game dishes, is an ideal time to open this wine.
We should praise Nadia and Cyril’s expertise and meticulous work in presenting a wine that they have kept secret for some time. They had to be patient with it, but the result is everything I had dreamed of. I hope you’ll enjoy tasting LM as much as I have.
David Ridgway
Chef Sommelier, La Tour d’Argent - Paris
When I was asked to taste La Madura’s Cuvée LM, I was concerned that I would be trying yet another superb Languedoc wine that was all muscle and no brain, the sort of wine that I quickly tire of.
La Madura’s Grand Vin already comes close to perfection for its balance, and I couldn’t see how the “TGV” (La Madura’s Très Grand Vin) could improve on it. But I hadn’t considered the genius of Cyril Bourgne.
This wine offers the warmth of stone and cashew (liquorice) and has a freshness and minerality on the palate – never a moment of heaviness but a wonderful, flavourful persistence and finish. Finish one glass and you want another. Well done indeed!
Antoine Pétrus
Assistant Chef Sommelier, Les Ambassadeurs, Hôtel de Crillon - Paris
Meilleur Jeune Sommelier de France 2007
A first glance at Cuvée LM shows us its crimson colour and purplish tints.
The bouquet offers a subtle combination of the expression of a southern terroir and an aromatic range led by juicy blackberry, blackcurrant and plum aromas.
This is followed by a spiciness - cinnamon, coriander and a hint of cedar - that adds a great deal of subtlety.
The first impressions on tasting are of a smooth, velvety texture that gradually evolves towards a combination of depth and density that act as a backdrop to superbly structured, noble tannins.
Note also the quality with which the wine has come through its period in the barrel. The precision with which it has been matured gives it great elegance, bringing out the southern, sunny character of one of the great Saint-Chinian wines.
The four grape varieties used - Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre – offer a charming range of flavours that add hints of precious wood, fresh leather and a touch of chocolate to give great nobility to the whole.
The finish offers an image of harmony, substance and flavour, with a persistence that suggests that the wine will be a great accompaniment to good food.
So get together with a few food-loving friends and enjoy it with a boned pigeon cooked with foie gras and ‘garrigue’ herbs, or a piece of pink venison with a few autumn vegetables.
In the first few years, pour the wine into a carafe and leave for a few minutes before serving at 16°. It will be at its best within 5 to 7 years.
Sergio Calderon
Chef Sommelier, Maison Bras - Laguiole
A very dark crimson colour with spicy, leathery, balsamic aromas. Well structured, with fine, upright, unctuous tannins and a delightfully fresh finish.
A very promising wine that retains its Mediterranean identity.
Enjoy it now (after decanting into a carafe) with slow-roasted shoulder of lamb.
I was delighted to be given the opportunity to taste this wine as a “preview” and to note the progress that has been made in recent years by young Languedoc wine-makers such as Cyril and Nadia.
Wine tasted in Laguiole on 22 October 2008.
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